Fence Calculator — Posts, Panels, Pickets & Cost

How to use this fence calculator

Enter the total length of your fence in feet, post spacing (8 feet is standard), and whether you're using pre-built panels or individual pickets. For picket fences, also enter picket width and the gap between pickets.

The calculator returns the number of posts, panels (or pickets), rails, and 60lb concrete bags needed to set the posts. It automatically adds one extra post for the end/corner — a common miscount.

For fences with multiple corners, add one post per corner beyond the first. For gates, subtract 2 posts from the calculated fence length per gate (you'll need gate hardware separately).

Standard fence post spacing

8 feet is the residential standard for most wood and vinyl fences. It's the default for a reason:

• Pre-cut pressure-treated posts come in 8-foot spans
• Pre-built fence panels are typically 6 or 8 feet wide
• 8-foot spacing balances strength and material efficiency

When to go tighter (6 feet):

• Tall privacy fences (over 6 feet high) — wind load increases
• Heavy gates or arbors — need extra support nearby
• Sloped terrain — shorter sections handle elevation changes cleaner
• Windy locations — reduces sway and panel stress

When wider (10+ feet) works:

• Split-rail or open-style ranch fencing with lighter materials
• Chain-link on light residential properties
• Decorative-only fences not expected to handle wind load

Post depth: the rule that saves your fence

Post depth = 1/3 of above-ground fence height, minimum. For a 6-foot-tall fence, posts go 2 feet into the ground. For 8-foot fences, 2.5–3 feet.

Also critical: post depth must exceed your frost line. In northern US states, that's 42+ inches. In southern states, 12–18 inches. Local building codes usually specify the minimum — check before digging.

Each post needs one bag of 60lb quick-set concrete (or equivalent). Our calculator includes this in the bag count automatically.

Wood vs. vinyl vs. chain link: cost and longevity

Wood (pressure-treated pine, cedar):

• Cost installed: $15–$40 per linear foot
• Lifespan: 15–25 years with staining every 2–3 years
• Pros: classic look, affordable, easy DIY
• Cons: requires maintenance, warps/rots over time

Vinyl:

• Cost installed: $25–$50 per linear foot
• Lifespan: 30–50 years
• Pros: no maintenance, no rot, color doesn't fade much
• Cons: cracks in extreme cold, harder to repair sections

Chain link:

• Cost installed: $10–$25 per linear foot
• Lifespan: 20–30 years
• Pros: cheapest durable option, clear sight lines
• Cons: not private, utilitarian look

Composite / aluminum:

• Cost installed: $30–$60 per linear foot
• Lifespan: 30+ years
• Pros: no maintenance, modern look
• Cons: most expensive upfront

Estimating total material cost

For a standard 100-foot privacy wood fence (6 feet tall, 8-foot post spacing):

• Posts: 14 × 4"x4"x8' pressure-treated = $14 × $12 = ~$170
• Panels: 13 × 6'x8' pre-built privacy = 13 × $60 = ~$780
• Concrete: 14 × 60lb bags quick-set = 14 × $5 = ~$70
• Hardware: nails, screws, post caps = ~$50
• Gate (optional): 1 × 4-foot gate kit = ~$150
• DIY material total: ~$1,220
• Professional installation: adds $8–$15 per linear foot = +$800–$1,500
• Full professional cost: ~$2,000–$2,700

Double these numbers for vinyl; add 50% for cedar over pine.

DIY tips that save you money

• Rent a post-hole auger, don't buy one. $50–$80 for a day is enough for a typical fence.
• Set corners and ends first, run a string line between them, then mark interior post positions. Straighter fence, less rework.
• Level posts as you pour concrete using a post level (clamps on the post itself). You have maybe 5 minutes before quick-set goes firm.
• Let posts cure 24 hours before attaching rails or panels. Pulling on green concrete = crooked posts.
• Stagger joints in rails so adjacent sections don't meet at the same post. Stronger overall structure.
• Call 811 before digging, seriously. Finding a gas line the hard way costs thousands and can kill you.